Most people get 3D print costing wrong. They count filament and resin, then stop. That leaves money on the table and kills your margin.
Here is the honest math. True cost per hour includes four parts: machine wear, power draw, labor, and materials. A desktop FDM printer running PLA might look cheap at $2 per hour. But add your time for setup and cleanup, plus the $0.50 hourly hit for machine depreciation, and your real cost jumps to $4 or $5. Resin printers cost more per hour upfront due to resin prices and post-processing labor, though they win on detail.
Smart shops track runtime, not just parts. Log every print start and stop. Know your electricity rate. Budget 10% of machine price annually for repairs. When you quote a 12-hour job, multiply your true hourly rate by 12. Do this, and you price to profit, not just to cover plastic.
FAQ
Q: How do I calculate machine depreciation for hourly costing?
A: Divide your printer’s purchase price by its expected lifetime hours. A $2,000 machine lasting 4,000 hours adds $0.50 to every hour you print.
Q: Does print speed affect my cost per hour?
A: Not directly. Faster prints use less labor time but often need more power and cooling. Track your actual meter readings to find your sweet spot.
Q: Should I charge the same rate for idle time and active printing?
A: No. Active printing burns materials and machine life. Idle time mainly costs labor if you monitor the job. Split your rate to reflect this, or build monitoring into your active rate.
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